The Rome Guide
General Travel Tips
I’m sure I won’t be the only one to warn you about safety in Rome. Pickpocketers are around. I’d definitely be aware in popular tourist destinations and if you are ever taking public transit. Always good to have a zippered back and don’t put anything valuable in pockets, etc.
If you are planning to see any sights, it will be easier to stay in the historic area. Yes, you will pay more for your hotel but the convenience, in my opinion, is worthwhile.
Rome is fairly mediterranean so be prepared for hot days if you are coming in July/August. June and September are lovely weather-wise but there is rarely a bad time of year to see Rome!
While it is quite warm outside, if you are visiting any church there is an expectation of propriety. If you’re a woman, I recommend bringing a scarf and/or sweater with you so you can cover your shoulders when required. They sometimes comment if dresses/skirts/shorts are too short, so plan accordingly when choosing outfits for the day.
All churches in Rome are free to visit but most museums or historical sites will require some sort of ticket. Definitely do some research in advance as many times it will allow you to skip lines if you’ve pre-purchased.
Staying in Rome
I have personally stayed in airbnb’s and the Hotel Grand de la Minerve. I also hear great things about: Hotel Eden, Hotel de Russie (also a great spot for a courtyard cocktail), Hotel de la Ville, Elizabeth Unique Hotel
Some dining tips
Rome is a magical place when you find the local/non-touristy spots. To this point, if it has red checkered table cloths and is on a piazza, you should be avoiding, they’re targeting tourists!
Eat all your meals later - if you walk into dinner before 8p, they automatically assume you’re a tourist and you’ll get worse food and service. Truly an example of the purpose for the phrase, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do!”
Rome has figured out the whole building a life around eating - in order to allow for the late dinner times, they ascribe to the Aperitivo lifestyle. So between 4:30-6p, most people will have a drink and a few nibbles to tide themselves over until dinner. This is where aperol spritzes and the related drinks are all over the place. Just be careful, some places include a little snack buffet with the aperitivo and some just bring you chips, olives, etc. Make sure you know what you’re paying for before you sit down!
Many restaurants in Rome have you order by course (i.e. you won’t order your primi and secondi at the same time). Note: this varies by place but I made it a point to just order the primi but have my secondi in mind in case they wanted me to order then!
Other Rome Guides I Trust
Eating in Rome
Restaurants
Maccheroni (near the Pantheon and Piazza Navona)
This is my personal favorite from my study abroad days! An adorable spot for lunch or dinner. The waitstaff is the best part of the place - if they realize you’re not a demanding tourist and actually want to experience Rome, they’re hilarious and so sweet. Any of their pastas are unbelievable (I loved the carbonara, pomodoro and they occasionally had a pasta nero that was delicious). It’s a little hidden but worth hiding out, and don’t rush through your meal. Italian lunches or dinners should come with wine and then an espresso to finish the meal!
Dar Poeta (Trastevere)
Dar Poeta is, according to Goop, “an institution, and for good reason.” This place is a rustic pizza spot that’s developed a bit of a cult following. Expect a line/wait if you don’t have a reservation but it to be worth it. Order one more classic (like Margherita) and something a bit more hearty and then don’t miss the desert calzones. Also, wine is cheap and delicious here so you really can’t go wrong.
Dal Bolognese (near Piazza del Popolo)
As a general rule, if a restaurant in Rome is on a Piazza, you shouldn’t trust it. Dal Bolognese is an exception. This spot is incredibly elegant and a perfect place for a special occasion meal. It is on the pricey size but the food is worth the trip. I was taken here by a princess or duchess (I’m not sure which) so you know it must be worth it :)
Roscioli Ristorante Salumeria (in Campo de Fiori)
While I have not been myself, a few of my friends have come home from Italy trips and named this as a must stop. Included in their adamant recommendation was “Must. Order. Cacio e Pepe.” Do with this what you will!
Ristorante Santa Lucia (near Piazza Navona)
A beautiful spot with an outdoor patio. The meatballs come highly recommended but this is a spot for a long leisurely lunch in the sunshine!
Osteria delle Coppelle (North of Pantheon)
Another spot I haven’t been myself but comes highly recommended. It has delicious food (carbonara comes recommended) and a good terrace and then there’s a speakeasy bar in the back that you can enjoy on it’s own or after dinner!
Taverna del Fiori Emperiali (in Monti):
I had the absolute best meal I’ve ever had in Rome here but I’ve also been on what felt lilke an off day, so grain of salt!. I’d recommend making a reservation but it’s tucked into an extremely historic area and the food is incredible. You truly can’t go wrong. Would recommend the Bruschetta with Pigs Cheek (don’t miss!), Eggplant Parmesan, Gnocchi, or any other Roman specialties (see more below) and a semifreddo for dessert.
Coffee and Sweets
The thing about gelato in Rome is that it’s all good. No place you go will have bad gelato. One core guiding principle - if you see huge mounds in the display, it means they’re not making fresh batches. The good spots make it homemade every morning and so they can keep smaller batches. Don’t eat off a large mound.
That being said, there are 2 extremely famous options that anybody who’s spent any time in Rome will have strong opinions about. Of course, I have a few others either, but this is the basic overview. You truly can’t go wrong.
Giolitti (Northeast of Piazza Navona)
Giolitti is probably the most famous of the Gelato spots. They have a million different flavors and are always busy. You pay at the register and then muscle your way to the front to order (don’t be shy)! They’ll scoop into a cone unless you say otherwise and the portions are huge. If they offer panna (cream), you should absolutely get it. There are places to sit inside but as with most places in Rome, there is a service charge and it’ll be much more expensive. They are known for these crazy sundaes which if you have a group to share with are a sight to be seen. Their gelato is a little icier so I’d recommend going for at least one fruity flavor here, which is where they really shine.
Frigidarium (South of Piazza Navona)
Giolitti’s direct rival. It’s a tiny spot and really nowhere to sit. They are best at the really creamy flavors and offer getting your cone dipped (yes, like Dairy Queen but better) in either milk or white chocolate and it’s as good as it sounds. I prefer Frigidarium over Giolitti both for the taste and the experience because it feels less touristy.
Gelateria del Teatro (West of Piazza Navona)
This one is my personal favorite but it’s definitely lesser known. Good news is: any trip to Rome can have multiple gelato stops! They have lots of unusual flavors that are worth pairing with a more traditional option - I enjoyed Zibibbo (which is a dessert wine), sage and rasberry, chocolate wine or ricotta and cherry. To order you take a ticket at the door and they handle in order. Also for my dairy-free brethren, they mark which ones are dairy free which makes ordering far easier than muscling out broken Italian!
Some other popular spots: Come il Latte, Fior de Luna, Gelateria del Gracchi
A hole in the wall option:
Bar San Calisto, in Trastevere, was my neighborhood everything (coffee shop, gelato and bar) while I lived in Rome. They’re known for their chocolate and strawberry flavors but coconut is also delicious!
Coffee
Like gelato, pretty much any coffee you get in Rome will be better than most things you can ever have stateside. There is also a rivalry between two famous spots that everybody who knows Rome will have an opinion on. A process note, like almost everything in Rome, if you sit the prices include service which will be almost double. The intention is that you stand at the bar to drink your coffee (and if you’re smart eat your corneti, which is like a croissant but better)!
Tazza d’Oro (near Pantheon)
The first half of the big rivalry. This is known for a sweeter coffee situation involving a huge glop of Panna with either chocolate, coffee or capuccino, and then more panna (because who can have too much Panna!) It is thicker than you anticipate and is unreal. In my opinion, the regular coffee isn’t as good as their competitor but if you want sweet, this is a good stop. Some say they’re nicer but really, how much do we care about that if the end product is worth it!
Caffe San Eustachio (West of the Pantheon)
Just in front of the Church of Sant Eustachio sits my favorite coffee place in Rome! Anything you get here is incredible but they are famous for the Grancaffe. It is a secret recipe, they even have screens so you can’t watch them make it. A Grancaffe is kind of like an espresso but it has foam at the top, but coffee foam not from milk like the foam in a cappuccino. Its magical and many people swear by it. Must try (and buy some beans to take home!
If you’re in Trastevere and need coffee, Bar San Calisto, yet again my neighborhood place and a perfect stop!
Sightseeing in Rome
The Foundational Must see’s
These are the places that your world history teacher, opinionated family member and all the guide books will say you need to see. I’m not saying it’s not true but I hope you expand a little further beyond these over the course of your trip. That said, they’re recommended for a reason!
Roman Forum: Where it all happened, location of the Roman senate, the heart of the republic, where Julius Caesar was killed (in the play, not in reality), and more!
The Colosseum: I mean, it’s in all the photos for a reason. For this and the Forum, you need tickets!
Pantheon: An unbelievable building and small compared to some of the others. This won’t take you long.
St Peters & the Vatican Museums: The Vatican museums are much like the Louvre, helpful to have a guide (and they help you skip the line). Leave plenty of time, if not a whole day for this experience, as you’re technically visiting an entirely different country! St. Peter’s and the Sistine Chapel are both unbelievable but will be quite busy if you don’t go first thing!
Basilica de San Clemente: A church but with way more hiding underneath. This church is literally built on top of the layers of Rome so you can descend levels through the eras of Christianity and even step into Empire-era Rome. Really cool!
Museo Borghese: Has the largest Bernini collection (who is unbelievable) and it’s a manageable sized museum. But timed entry so make sure to reserve tickets ahead of time!
Piazza Navona: A gorgeous Piazza with one of my favorite Bernini fountains. Make sure you stroll thorugh!
Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps): All you Lizzie McGuire movie fans will definitely recognize this one!
Trevi Fountain: Another big one for the Lizzie fans. And a stop to throw a quick coin in the fountain to make sure you’ll have the luck of coming back to Rome again! It’s always crowded midday, so not a bad idea to stop by early or on your way to dinner when it’ll be less crowded!
Worth the Stop!
Museums
Capitoline Museum: looks out on the Forum and has an unbelievable collection of Republic and Empire era (including the Romulus and Remus statue)!
Museo via Tasso: The museum commemorating the Nazi occupation and ultimate liberation of Rome. If you’re a WWII fan, this will be surprisingly unknown to you!
Keats Shelley House: For the poetry fans out there! Right near the Spanish Steps. He died in this house!
Churches
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (near Pantheon)
Converted from a non-Christian temple, this church is known for an obelisk out front with an elephant (which I always thought was funny)! And has a gorgeous Michelangelo in the front.
Sant Ignazio (near Pantheon)
Just around the corner from Sopra Minerva is Sant Ignazio which is Baroque era (and the interior will very much look it). It’s got a clever fresco inside that creates a fake dome effect which is really cool. I always thought the exterior was a also a really elegant shape!
San Luigi dei Francesci (Near Piazza Navona)
This is the French national church in Rome (hence the name) and has an enormous quantity of baroque work and potentially importantly, Caravaggio. There is a chapel with three of them - the coolest part of this is that Caravaggio painted them knowing where they’d go so the light in the paintings correspond with the real light in the chapel!
St John the Lateran (South of central Rome)
This one is really for the history nerds - this basilica is technically the real seat of the Pope and the oldest basilica in the Western World! It’s further out, so if you’ve got a tight trip, this will be a hard one to get to!
Santa Maria Maggiore (Near Termini Train Station)
Santa Maria Maggiore is on the older end of the famous list from the 5th century. It has a gorgeous golden cieling and some beautiful art. It’s not in true central Rome so also probably best for those who have more time but really gorgeous!
Santa Maria della Vittoria(Near Piazza Barberini)
Vittoria is tucked into a little block and not immediately noticeable but is home to one of the most incredible Bernini sculptures, The Ecstasy of Teresa. If you’re not a Bernini fan, first of all you should be, but go check this one out - the emotions on the faces and the use of gold in this piece is really amazing!
Other
Knights of Malta Keyhole: This is not really on the way to anything but if you have time, it’s a cool experience. On the land of the embassy for the Kingdom of Malta (yes, as in the Knight’s of Malta from the crusades) there’s a perfectly framed view through a keyhole of St. Peter’s. You can’t go inside so it’s truly just about the view but it is a bit magical!
Castel San Angelo: The fortress for Pope’s to flee to (there’s an underground tunnel from St. Peter’s) if Vatican City was ever attacked. It’s a cool building but often misses people’s list!
Villa Adriana & Villa D’Este (Tivoli): A day trip from Rome (which isn’t made clear in Lizzie McGuire Movie when they go to visit!) are two gorgeous garden villas. This is Rome’s equivalent of Versailles to Paris and it’s a fun little respite from the city for a day if you have time!
